Surfing the Dunes of the Gulf

My First Desert Safari

When I think of drastic fortune shifts, I often think of places like The United Arab Emirates. It is not an easy feat to completely turn around circumstances and fate in a handful of decades. The Emirates have been able to achieve this after uniting and discovering their golden ticket – "Black Gold." Oil money is a hotly debated topic in some circles. It is as greasy and dark as some industries get, but it is not the worst hand. Miracles can happen when a nation can dodge the resource curse trap. Dubai and the other Emirates are good examples. Previously uninhabited lands with sparse fishing villages have now become not only regional but global hubs of trade and commerce. This sudden influx of wealth and attention soon allowed the most diversified Emirate to become a tourist hot spot. The pearl fishing community now hosts ten times more expats than locals.

Dubai now has more annual tourists than residents. All forms of tourism are thriving and still growing here. It seems too superficial and "artificial" to me. I boldly contend that Dubai is a parody of the 21st century. That doesn't mean I can devalue what Dubai has achieved and can offer. There is plenty to experience here in this cosmopolitan metropolis. I cautiously dread it because it brings out my materialistic side. Money buys you things even your imagination can't fabricate in this modern oasis. The glass and steel forests have a seductive pull I was drawn to the last time I visited. My wants have changed this time; I seek more authentic experiences.

I had heard of desert safaris being popular activities. I had always been infatuated with the idea of venturing into the desert since it represents the unknown. Such vastness calls an adventurer like me, and this seemed like my chance. We were off into the sand desert shielded by the city from the Persian Gulf. Although I'm not a big fan of touristy experiences, I knew this was an opportunity to let my heart and senses wander. Dubai has an elongated layout that spreads somehow thin across the coastline. It takes a while to cross from end to end. You can tell the ride is about to begin when the iconic city skyline starts to fade into the distance. There were construction projects just outside the city's periphery. The human touch gradually faded out of existence as it slowly receded to the background of the scene and our minds. A very pivotal experience that I needed soon followed.

Distant Dubai skyline (2017)

The city was hot and humid enough to make you lose your mind. I can't imagine how harsh the dry desert heat would be if our car didn't have air conditioning. I have always wanted to cross a desert in a caravan. This trip was more inspiration and motivation than I could ask for. After almost an hour into the drive, we were surrounded by sand as far as the eye could see. Not a single cloud was in sight as the skies were clear blue. There was not much vegetation other than the occasional bushes closer to death than life. I wasn't here for biota; I wanted to be surprised. I am always seeking grandeur when I travel. I am perpetually thirsty for a sip of new experiences that shake my foundation and redefine my realm of possibilities.

Wavy sand dunes in the outskirts of Dubai (2017)

Sand dunes have a way of taking elegantly wavy yet defined shapes. It was empty from horizon to horizon, split down the middle by the gray asphalt road. I enjoy scenic landscapes very much, but I didn't expect much more than that on this trip. I slowly started to learn I was (for lack of a better term) uninformed. People might consider the view monotonous after seeing miles of nothing but sand dunes. I was almost headed toward that state when I started to notice something. The matter wasn't about the landmasses we were passing by. The greater wisdom and beauty lie in the one thing a sandy desert has most abundantly - sand.

Setting sun and desert plant (2017)

I learned a lot of life lessons by observing how sand behaves and interacts with the elements. I started noticing how it reflects light at particular angles, which reminded me that glass comes from sand. I was reflecting on how sand is a timekeeper, used in hourglasses and quartz watches for a reason. Sand doesn't dissolve in water. Its particles are so coarse they don't stick to each other; it flows and wanders. Sand is very dynamic and fluid, able to change form in time – both short and long-term. I started to best see how sand behaves when in such an abundance.

My observations started when I saw small patches of sand piling on the road. The thin layers of sand obeyed the winds and retained the shape of the last breeze, then yielding to the next. Sand is like a photograph, a framed imprint of the moment. Despite its fluidity, sand also holds up and can preserve what it has captured for a long time. Footprint dents left in sand stay long until eventually covered up by multiple layers. It taught me how legacies are left behind and can serve to guide those following a meaningful trail amidst an infinite void. However, any legacy ends at some point, and nothing is noble enough to transcend the winds of time indefinitely. I occupied my mind by pondering upon these profound revelations and others during our long drive. I am thrilled to remember that we haven’t even reached our destination.

The dunes have proven their seductive charms. It must have been hours already, but I was in a trance until we reached our first destination. I had always wanted to try quad-biking. As someone who doesn't know how to ride a bike (yet), four wheels sound ideal - a great combination of power, speed, and balance. I was excited and hopped on without any hesitation. I wrapped my 'shamagh' (head scarf) tighter and braced myself. It was time to have fun. I must have gone over my ride time limit. I couldn't get enough of it! As an adrenaline junkie, I didn't stop once. I would gain momentum at high speeds and drive straight up a dune as if going for a flip. Things were safe most of the time, but I almost crashed and heavily injured myself. The one time I accidentally drove right off a small cliff, I almost fell upside-down. Phew! That was a close call. Relieved by my close encounter and exhilarated by this new experience, our time was up, and it was time to move on.

Setting sun in desert (2017)

As enjoyable as this was, the main event was yet to come. We kept on driving in a different direction this time. I like the sense of mystery I feel when I see this many people, literally, in the middle of nowhere. It makes me think that there could be anyone anywhere, but I wouldn't know until I see for myself. What a thrill. I am energized and excited to see what's next. The sandy ocean was changing its hue as the sun approached the horizon. The views became even more textured and three-dimensional. It is a thing of beauty to see so much sand with wavy impressions of the winds. Falcons are the pride of Arabian desert culture. I got the chance to hold one and pose for some pictures. I was falling in love with the desert by the minute, but the best was yet to come.

A whole day of traveling deeper and deeper into unknown lands gives you an unparalleled sense of calm. You grow bolder and sharper when your senses get some rest from the over-stimulation that characterizes our lives nowadays. Temperatures started to drop as dusk was nearing. We have finally arrived at the campsite. I have countless fantasies of such a scene inspired by many folktales and legends. I had recently read "A Tale of 1,001 Nights," and this setting seemed fitting for perhaps the 1,002nd night of magic to unfold. I was eager to see what the camp had in store for us. There was some time until the big show started, so we were left to wander around and take in the setting sun.

Tire tracks leading to sun setting behind dunes (2017)

I was seeing the power of the growing tourism industry at a remote outpost. There were so many activities and memorabilia to buy. Dubai is where money does a lot of the talking. I was there to experience the desert landscape and culture first-hand. And although my intentions were clear, I started seeing the ugly side of tourism that I came to loathe. Everyone was trying to sell something, conning for that next buck. I understand this fuels the economy and livelihood of so many, but it gets irritating after a certain point. It is hard to stay in the moment when money problems follow you into the most remote and barren landscapes. I had to actively fight off all forms of temptation to spend money so I could leave without empty pockets. It puts a strain on your willpower.

Footsteps on wavy sand in a barren desert (2017)

Despite that, I had the chance to do something I had wished to try for a while. They had camel rides, and it felt right to do it here and now. Camels fascinate me. I admire how they are designed and built with such divine engineering. They are ships of the sea indeed. The poor fellow assigned to me had my sympathies. The despair was evident, and I felt the gloomy sadness this camel must have felt for so long. I went for a few rounds and called it a day. It was a tame and redundant series of short laps in such a small area. The only thrilling part must have been when the camel got up from the ground while I was on its back. The rest of the slow walk was rather anticlimactic. I can't complain; there's always a first time.

Camel trained to carry around visiting tourists at desert camp (2017)

I continued to make my way around the campsite, taking pictures and writing in the sand. I had a brief chat with a couple of Australian gentlemen. The Ozzies got their hands on a sandboard and let me take it for a spin. It is just like snowboarding but less risky, I think. I wished the guys a great night and thanked them for the sandboard as I left. It was getting dark, and the stars started showing their brilliance where there was no light pollution or precipitation.

Time for a party in the desert. The night started smoothly, as we got to pick up dinner from a buffet and get seats alongside the platform stage. Dinner was delicious and filling, but we wanted our eyes to feast next. I was a big fan of belly dancing and had set expectations. Then came a very fair-skinned beauty on the stage, stealing the show and captivating our attention. She must be Lebanese. I was very enchanted. The fast-paced & dynamic, percussion-heavy, Arabian rhythms were the perfect accompaniment for her elaborate and enticing movement. Everything was in sync; I was blown away by her hip mobility and charisma. I couldn't stop filming, and suddenly she came straight to me, pointing at me with a cane she used as part of her act. I froze in shock; it was interesting to be noticed by the centerpiece. She commanded the stage for a long while without losing our attention. Then came other acts. There was a flame spitter who showed all kinds of fire tricks. Then came a peculiarly dressed man draped in a skirt-like Arabian outfit glowing bright green and red.

Quite a spectacle we witnessed, secluded from the rest of the world. I was delighted with how the day went. It was refreshing and eye-opening. It was getting dark, and we had to leave. We left quicker than we came, speeding through the empty vastness. The desert is even more mysterious at night. There is nothing to be seen for miles in all directions. It is pitch black, and the skies generously display all the stars without concealing anything. We returned in less time than it took to get to the camp. But who am I to say? The desert is the timekeeper of all happenings here. It has seen countless days like this and blessed me with only a sliver of its riches. I would love to come here someday and maybe even spend a night outdoors. What happens in the desert can only be lived in the desert.

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